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Where is the Air Filter in My HVAC System?

Where is the Air Filter in My HVAC System?

Tips for locating the air filter based on your type of HVAC system

Bravo for wanting to change your air filter! That’s the first step to improving the air quality in your home, helping your HVAC system run more efficiently and saving money on energy costs.

The next step can be trickier — finding the air filter. It may be difficult to locate on some HVAC systems, but you can usually find the air filter in the return air duct. Or in layman’s terms, that big metal grate on your wall, floor, ceiling or utility closet door. Return air ducts can be just about anywhere.

Unlike the smaller ducts around your home, the return air duct or blower compartment pulls in the air from your home and sends it to your HVAC unit to be heated or cooled. It’s important to have a good air filter installed to trap allergens and other irritants, so they don’t get circulated around your home.

Here are some of the most common locations for an HVAC air filter.

 

 

  • Horizontal HVAC units
    Horizontal units are frequently located in attics, large basements or garages. The filter usually fits in a slot on the air return side of the unit.
  • Vertical HVAC units
    These systems are usually found in smaller basements or crawl spaces where space is limited. The filter typically slides into a slot above or below the HVAC unit.
  • Other HVAC systems
    For any other kind of system, look for the air filter behind the return air grill on the wall, ceiling or utility closet door.

Don’t forget, some HVAC systems have a return in each room. So there may be an air filter behind each of those return grills.

Finding your air return ducts can be a bit like a scavenger hunt. But it’s worth the effort to walk around your entire house, looking high and low. Be sure to check behind doors and other hidden places, so you don’t miss one.

5 Air Conditioning Myths That Are Costing You Money

5 Air Conditioning Myths That Are Costing You Money

Don’t waste your energy on these common beliefs

Want to save money on your air conditioning expenses and energy bills? Then don’t buy into these common A/C myths.

  1. MYTH: The Size of Your A/C Unit Isn’t Important

FACT: The size of your HVAC unit depends on the size of your space. A too-small air conditioning system will have to work harder to cool your home and wear down sooner. A too-large system will keep turning off and on until it breaks down. Check with a specialist who can help you choose the right size HVAC unit for your home.

  1. MYTH: Turn the Temperature Down for Quicker Cooling

FACT: Your air conditioning unit works just as hard whether you lower it 3 degrees or 30 degrees — getting to the temperature you want is just a matter of time. If you set it lower than you need to and forget about it, you’ll end up paying a higher bill. Try using a programmable thermostat or smart thermostat to save money and get the temperature you actually want.

  1. MYTH: You Don’t Need to Change the Air Filters

FACT: You may vacuum your home on a regular basis, but it’s still important to check your air filters. Air filters are typically inexpensive and can save you money on repair costs and your electric bill in the long run. If you have trouble finding your air filter or replacing it, call a specialist to help you with replacement every 30-90 days.

Air Conditioners

  1. MYTH: Run Your HVAC System Until It Quits

FACT: You’ll often hear this myth regarding cars, but it applies to HVAC units, too. Replacing an air conditioner might be more expensive up front, but running your unit past its expiration date will be less efficient and cost you money in the long run on repairs. Start saving money on your energy bills sooner by replacing your old unit before it quits on you.

  1. MYTH: Maintenance Doesn’t Matter

FACT: Broken units are inefficient units, so keep your HVAC unit performing at its peak. What might seem like a minor issue now could become an expensive one later if you don’t repair it.

5 Common Myths About Furnaces That Aren’t True

5 Common Myths About Furnaces That Aren’t True

We’re putting some heat on these winter furnace myths

Cooler weather doesn’t have to mean higher heating bills. Don’t fuel the fire of bad information— save your furnace and your wallet by separating fact from fiction.

  1. FICTION: Close Your Vents to Close Off Heat

FACT: It almost feels like common sense to close the vents to rooms you don’t need to be heated, but your furnace distributes heat equally throughout your home no matter what. Closing the vents to unused rooms only makes your furnace work harder and less efficiently— keep them open to keep air flowing freely.

  1. FICTION: It’s Normal to Have Cold Feet

FACT: Having cold floors in the winter means your home isn’t well-insulated, allowing the hot air you pay for to get out. Check the sealing around doors and windows, or hire a professional to properly seal your home so you can walk around comfortably.

  1. FICTION: All You Need is Efficiency

FACT: Having an efficient system is important if you’re trying to lower your bills, but it doesn’t mean anything if your home isn’t optimized for heating. Aside from checking your insulation around doors and windows, contact an HVAC expert to inspect ductwork, fix leaks and keep the warm air inside.

  1. FICTION: Run Your System Into the Ground

FACT: If your old furnace is breaking down, you might be tempted to just replace the bad parts until it finally quits. Replacing a furnace may seem expensive up front, but creating a frankenfurnace only causes your old system to work less efficiently and drive up your power bills. Find a new winter furnace that runs on less energy and fits your family’s budget.

 

  1. FICTION: Maintenance Isn’t Mandatory

FACT: Don’t let small problems turn into large bills. Regular maintenance is necessary to keep your furnace in top shape.

5 Common Misconceptions About Heat Pumps

5 Common Misconceptions About Heat Pumps

Don’t waste time or money believing the biggest heat pump myths

Heat pumps purchases are on the rise with smart homeowners looking toward more energy-efficient options, but there’s a lot of misinformation surrounding these versatile heating and cooling systems. Let’s clear the air with these heat pump facts, so you can make your home and monthly energy bills more comfortable.

  1. MISCONCEPTION: Heat Pumps Are Only for Heating

 TRUTH: Although people typically think of heating when it comes to heat pumps, names can be misleading. Heat pumps use a mechanical-compression refrigeration system that can either heat or cool your home depending on the season. This means you only need one system year-round to maintain a comfortable temperature indoors.

heat pump

  1. MISCONCEPTION: They’ll Burn a Hole in Your Wallet

 TRUTH: Heat pumps can help you save over 30% on your energy bill, compared to other conventional heating systems. While the upfront cost may be more than other options, an efficient heat pump paired with proper insulation will save you money in the long run.

  1. MISCONCEPTION: You’ll Need Earplugs Indoors

TRUTH: Heat pumps used to be pretty noisy, but modern air pump technology has evolved into much quieter systems. As long as your heat pump is properly installed by a professional, you shouldn’t have any issues with excess noise.

  1. MISCONCEPTION: Cold Climate Means Cold Home

 TRUTH: One of the biggest misconceptions about heat pumps is that they only work in more temperate climates — not true. Most efficient heat pumps, like Trane systems with their Climatuff™ Variable Speed Compressor, can handle temperatures as low as 0 degrees Fahrenheit for average-sized homes.

  1. MISCONCEPTION: Their Lifespan is Limited 

TRUTH: Rumor is that heat pumps burn out quicker because they run year-round. The reality is that as long as your heat pump is properly maintained, high-quality models will last at least 15-20 years.

Why isn’t my heat working? Heating problems answered

Why isn’t my heat working? Heating problems answered

Prepare for cooler weather with answers to the most common heating system questions

Fall is finally here. A time for pumpkin spice everything, festivals and crisp days and cool nights. Fall is also the first time most of us turn our heat on. What should you do if it doesn’t work? We’ve got troubleshooting tips for this and more common heating questions. Mom and son keeping warm under a blanket near a furnace

Shutterstock Photo By Lens Candy

Why isn’t my heat working?

ANSWER: The circuit breaker might have been tripped. Try resetting it.

ANSWER: Your thermostat may not be calibrated properly or set too low. Make sure your thermostat is set to heat. Try setting the temperature 2 to 4 degrees above room temperature.

ANSWER: Clean or replace your filters. Whether you have a gas or oil furnace or a heat pump, filters need to be routinely cleaned or replaced. You can use the owner’s manual to find where the air and oil filters are located in your unit.

ANSWER: The pilot light may be out or the gas turned off. If you have a gas furnace, make sure the gas line is switched on. If the main gas line is turned off, you’ll need to have your local gas company check. If you have an older gas furnace (before 1990), one of the first things to check is your pilot light. Your owner’s manual will feature detailed instructions on re-lighting the pilot. Contact your local Trane Comfort Specialist™ if you’re unsure. 

Why is it hot upstairs and cold downstairs?

ANSWER: Heat is escaping. Create climate zones to heat the rooms you want. The DIY way to do this is to close a few (not all) vents on the second floor. This forces your heating system to direct more air downstairs. Take this concept to the next level by having an HVAC professional install a climate zone system, like the Trane ComfortLink™ II Zoning System. In this system, heated or cooled air is directed where it’s needed most.

ANSWER: Your insulation and weather strips need to be replaced. As you know, heat rises and cold air collects on the ground level. So any cold air that enters through drafty doors and windows is going to be felt most downstairs. It’s a simple fix that can make a noticeable difference.

Why is the air flow so low?

ANSWER: Clean or replace your filters. Over time, dust and dirt will accumulate on the filter screen. There could also be a blockage in your air ducts. If this is the case, you’ll need your local Trane Comfort Specialist™ to inspect the ductwork.

Why is my utility bill so high?

ANSWER: Your system is running too much. If you have your thermostat set to a temperature drastically warmer than the outside temperature, your system has to work harder to maintain the temperature. This can result in a higher-than-normal utility bill. Try adjusting your thermostat to a more moderate temperature.

ANSWER: Your rates may have been raised. Your utility company might have raised their rates. Contact your utility company and compare the rates on your current bill with those from previous months.

Smart Heating & Cooling: Trane ComfortLink™ Technology

Smart Heating & Cooling: Trane ComfortLink™ Technology

Boost your at-home comfort and energy efficiency with Trane HVAC zoning and connected controls

Looking for a heating and cooling system that adapts to your lifestyle? Trane ComfortLink™ Technology gives you total control of your home’s comfort and helps you save on energy costs.

That’s because it’s more than just a smart thermostat. Our innovative ComfortLink™ tech works together in a streamlined system to optimize efficiency, maintain even cooling and heating temperatures and let you make adjustments from wherever you are. Ready to make your life easier? Here’s how to do it with Trane connected controls.

 

The Trane ComfortLink™ II Command Center

It’s all starts with a state-of-the-art thermostat and zoning control system like the Trane ComfortLink™ II XL1050 with built-in Nexia™ Bridge. This is your zoning and automation hub that lets you remotely control your home, comfort and energy use. Making adjustments is easy from your smartphone, tablet or computer.

3 BIG BENEFITS

  1. Monitor your home: A network of sensors monitors and optimizes the humidity and temperature in your home, adjusting compressor and fan speeds in real time to give you the most comfortable air operating efficiency possible.
  2. Take control: Trane’s connected controls with built-in Nexia™ Bridge combine zone-by-zone comfort control with a smart home hub that connects to a variety of smart devices.
  3. Run real-time diagnostics: Nexia™ can monitor your HVAC system diagnostics in real time and alert your Trane dealer if there’s an issue. You even have the option to set it up so your dealer can troubleshoot by remotely viewing details on how your heating and air conditioning system is performing.

The ComfortLink™ II HVAC Zoning System

Trane’s innovative ComfortLink™ II Zoning System lets you send heated or cooled air exactly where you need it, when you need it. You’ll get steady, precise comfort on demand, room by room or zone by zone.

Set a schedule based on your home’s unique temperature patterns and control it from wherever you are with our exclusive Nexia™ system. Every ComfortLink™ Control comes with remote climate access, so you can monitor and control your zoning system through any web-enabled device.

ZONING COMPONENTS

  • Trane ComfortLink™ II Control: This is the heart of your zoning system. It’s more than a thermostat — it’s an easy-to-use advanced command center that provides a seamless interface between your system and your life.
  • Wired Zone Thermostat/Sensors: These work as both a sensor and a zone thermostat. Temperature data is relayed to the Trane ComfortLink™ II Control so it can adjust the temperature in each individual zone.
  • Motorized Modulating Dampers: Our exclusive motorized modulating dampers work inside your ductwork by opening and closing in partial increments so you can fine-tune zoned areas for maximum comfort.

A Perfect Match

Experience ultimate comfort when you connect your Trane ComfortLink™ II Control and zoning equipment to a perfectly matched Trane variable-speed indoor unit and multi-stage outdoor unit. Every component is designed to work in harmony with the others — optimizing your indoor temperature and energy use. It also provides enhanced humidity control you’ll only find with a Trane matched system.

Trane’s Best Heat Pump

Trane’s Best Heat Pump

SEE OUR TOP-RATED HEAT PUMPS IN THE CATEGORIES THAT MATTER TO YOU MOST: ENERGY EFFICIENCY, QUIET OPERATION, AND VALUE

If you’re looking for a new heat pump, the first thing you need to do is identify what features matter to you most. Do you want the best value? Do you want the most energy efficient? Or maybe a bit of both?

Trane Heat Pump

In order to make your choice a little easier, we’ve identified the heat pump that performs the best in three important categories: energy efficiency, quiet operation and value. We’ll explain what those categories mean and explain how our best heat pumps perform so you can make the best decision for you and your family.

Heat pump features you need to know

The technical terms and features of heat pumps can feel like a foreign language. Even if you begin to understand them, how do you know what features are right for your home? Honestly, your best resource for a thorough understanding of the latest equipment and what your home needs is your local HVAC specialist. However, there are a few basics you should know.

  • Energy Efficiency – Don’t let the name fool you, heat pumps actually heat your home in the winter and cool your home in summer. Because of this, heat pumps are rated for their energy usage in two ways – HSPF for heating and SEER for cooling. Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF), is the ratio for the efficiency of heat pumps. Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER), measures the energy efficiency of air conditioners. These usually range from 13-22. A higher rating means better efficiency. Greater energy efficiency can translate into lower monthly energy costs. Keep in mind: An HSPF > 8 is considered high efficiency. Higher SEER rating = better efficiency.
  • Sound Level – When space is limited or in cities with strict noise standards, having a quiet running heat pump is a priority. In heat pumps, moving parts like fans and cabinet insulation can reduce noise levels. Many units are rated with a Nominal Sound Levelthe average sound level in decibels. The higher the number, the louder the unit. For example:
    40 = A library
    70 = A vacuum cleaner at 10 ft.
    43 = Our quietest heating and cooling systems
  • Value – When we say best value, that doesn’t mean it’s the lowest price. At Trane, we define value by identifying the heat pump that delivers a high efficiency rating and includes many of our industry leadinginnovations, but is more affordable than our most advanced units. In short, a quality product that won’t break your budget.

Most Efficient Heat Pump – Trane XV20i

Trane XV20i Heat pump

The XV20i heat pump has the highest efficiency rating of all our heat pumps with a SEER rating of 20 and an HSPF of 10. With that level of energy efficiency, customers can possibly save an average of over $500 each year in energy costs*. Our most efficient heat pump is Energy Star Qualified and includes our patented TruComfort™ variable-speed system and integrated communicating technology to keep your home at an optimal temperature and avoid spikes that lead to increased energy consumption.

Quietest Heat Pump – Trane XV19 low profile

Trane XV19 low profile heat pump

The Trane XV19 low profile heat pump checks in with sound levels starting as low as 43 dBA – making it the quietest system in our lineup. It includes innovative sound insulators and a unique integrated fan system with a leading edge swept fan design to reduce noise levels. XV19 is also Energy Star Qualified with a SEER rating up to 19.5 and an HSPF of up to 12 – making it a great combination of energy efficiency and quiet operation.

Best Value Heat Pump – Trane XR15

 

Trane XR15

We’ve identified the Trane XR15 as our best value heat pump because of its high efficiency ratings and more affordable price point. With high-efficiency SEER rating of 16 and a high-efficiency HSPF of 9.50, you can expect to see noticeable energy savings when you replace an older, less efficient unit.

Trane's Best Furnaces

Trane's Best Furnaces

Find out which furnace ranks #1 in these key categories: Most Efficient, Quietest, and best Value.

Finding the best furnace for your home can be difficult. It really comes down to knowing what features matter to you most. Do you want the best value? Do you want the most energy efficient? Or maybe a bit of both?

Trane Furnace in 150 degree heat testing lab.

In order to make your choice a little easier, we’ve identified the furnace that performs the best in three important categories: energy efficiency, quiet operation and value. We’ll explain what those categories mean and highlight how our best furnaces perform so you can make an informed decision.

Furnace features you need to know

The technical terms and features of furnaces can feel like a foreign language. Even if you begin to understand them, how do you know what features are right for your home? Honestly, your best resource for a thorough understanding of the latest equipment and what your home needs is your local HVAC specialist. However, there are a few basics you should know.  

  • Energy Efficiency – Furnaces, like air conditioners and any other home appliance, consume energy to work. Some furnaces use less energy than others to get the same results. A furnace AFUE rating can help you tell the difference.  Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) is a measure of a gas furnace’s efficiency in converting fuel to energy. A higher AFUE means greater energy efficiency. Greater energy efficiency can translate into lower monthly energy costs. Keep in mind: Standard efficiency = 80% AFUE. High efficiency = 90% AFUE and above.
  • Sound Level – For residential areas with strict noise level standards or if space is limited, having a quiet running furnace can be key. In furnaces, moving parts like blower motors, fans as well as cabinet insulation quality can limit noise. Many units are rated with a Nominal Sound Levelthe average sound level in decibels. The higher the number, the louder the unit. For example:
    40 = A library
    70 = A vacuum cleaner at 10 ft.
    45 = Our quietest heating and cooling systems
  • Value – We don’t define best value as our lowest priced unit. At Trane, we define value by identifying the furnace that delivers a high-efficiency rating and updated features but is more affordable than our most advanced units. Think of these like Goldilocks – not too high, not too low – just right.

Most Efficient Furnace – Trane XC95M

Trane XC95M

The XC95M gas furnace has the highest AFUE rating in our family of products at 97.3%. With that level of energy efficiency, customers can possibly save up to 38% per year in energy costs*. Our most efficient furnace is Energy Star Qualified and includes a variable-speed blower motor and communicating technology to constantly calibrate and keep your home at an optimal temperature and avoid spikes that lead to increased energy consumption.

Quietest Furnace – Trane S9V2-VS

Trane S9V2-VS

The Trane S9V2-VS gas furnace includes our patented Vortica II blower and a heavy steel insulated cabinet to help it run quietly. The S9V2-VS is also Energy Star Qualified with an AFUE rating of 97% – making it a great combination of energy efficiency and quiet operation.

Best Value Furnace – Trane XB90

Trane XB90

We’ve identified the Trane XB90 gas furnace as our best value furnace because it checks all the boxes for efficiency and quality at a more affordable price point. With a 92% AFUE rating, the XB90 qualifies as a “high efficiency” furnace. So if you’re replacing an older, standard or lower rated unit, you can still see noticeable energy savings.

Trane's Best Air Conditioners

Trane's Best Air Conditioners

We’ve identified the 3 air conditioners that perform the best in 3 key categories: Most Efficient, Quietest and Best Value.

If you’re looking for an air conditioner, the first thing you need to do is identify what features matter to you most. Do you want the best value? Do you want the most energy efficient? Or maybe a bit of both?

Trane Air Conditioner in cold testing lab covered in ice and frost

In order to make your choice a little easier, we’ve identified the air conditioner that performs the best in three important categories: energy efficiency, quiet operation and value. We’ll explain what those categories mean and explain how our best air conditioners perform so you can make the right decision for you and your family.

Air conditioner features you need to know

Honestly, your best resource for a thorough understanding of the latest equipment and what your home needs is your local HVAC specialist. However, there are a few key terms and features you should know when shopping for a new air conditioner.

  • Energy Efficiency – Air conditioners, like any other home appliance, consume energy to work. Some just happen to use less energy than others to get the same results. The Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER), measures the energy efficiency of air conditioners so you can easily compare the energy efficiency of different air conditioners. SEER ratings usually range  from 13-22. A higher rating means better efficiency. Greater energy efficiency can translate into lower monthly energy costs. Air conditioner standards: 16 SEER and above = High efficiency, 13 SEER is the minimum allowed in Northern areas, and 14 SEER is the minimum allowed in Southeastern and Southwestern areas
  • Sound Level – When space is limited or in cities with strict noise standards, having an air conditioner that won’t wake the neighbors is important. In air conditioners, moving parts like fans and motors as well as cabinet insulation can reduce noise levels. Many units are rated with a Nominal Sound Levelthe average sound level in decibels. The higher the number, the louder the unit. For example:
    40 = A library
    70 = A vacuum cleaner at 10 ft.
    43 = Our quietest heating and cooling systems
  • Value – The important thing to know about our best value air conditioner is that it isn’t going to be our lowest priced unit. At Trane, we define best value to mean the air conditioner delivers a high efficiency rating and includes many of our industry leading innovations, but is more affordable than our most advanced unts. In short, a quality product that won’t break your budget.

Most Efficient Air Conditioner – Trane XV20i

Trane XV20i Air Conditioner

The XV20i air conditioner has the highest efficiency rating in our family of products at up to 22 SEER. With that level of energy efficiency, customers can possibly save up to 64% each year in energy costs*. The XV20i is Energy Star Qualified and includes our patented TruComfort™ variable-speed system and integrated communicating technology to keep your home at an optimal temperature and avoid spikes that lead to increased energy consumption.

Quietest Air Conditioner – Trane XV18

Trane XV18 Air conditioner

The Trane XV18 air conditioner has a sound level starting as low as 57 dBA – 4 dB below the competition. It includes innovative sound insulators and a unique integrated fan system with a blade-down fan design that improves airflow and reduces sound levels. XV18 is also Energy Star Qualified with a SEER rating up to 18 – making it a great combination of energy efficiency and quiet operation.

Best Value Air Conditioner – Trane XR14

Trane XR14 Air Conditioner

We’ve identified the Trane XR14 as our best value air conditioner because of its high efficiency ratings and more affordable price point. With a SEER rating of up to 16, you can expect to see noticeable energy savings when you replace an older, less efficient unit.

6 Ways to Prepare Your A/C for Storms

6 Ways to Prepare Your A/C for Storms

Smart steps to protect your air conditioner during hurricanes and summer storms

If you’re anxious about the Atlantic hurricane season (June 1 – November 30) or just wary of summer storms, it’s wise to protect your HVAC system from whatever weather blows through this season.

Storms don’t just bring rain and wind. They also cause power outages that can leave you without the comfort of your air conditioning and other home appliances for hours or days. Check out Ready.gov for ways to prepare your entire home for bad weather. Be sure to take special care with your A/C system, so you can stay cool between storms.

Protecting Your Air Conditioner

Below are 6 steps you can take before, during and after a storm to minimize damage to your air conditioner and get it up and running faster when the power comes back on.

  1. Pre-cool your home. If you think your power may go out during a storm, go ahead and cool your home in advance so you can stay comfortable until power is restored. Set your thermostat to a cooler setting than usual, close curtains and blinds and keep doors and window shut to keep the cold air inside.
  2. Turn off electricity to your air conditioner. Electrical surges from lightning strikes during the storm can damage your A/C unit. There’s also a chance that debris could get stuck in your outdoor unit and burn out the motor. Play it safe by shutting off power to your A/C system. We recommend you turn off power from your thermostat and circuit breaker.
  3. Cover your outdoor A/C unit. This step is only really necessary if you’re expecting a hurricane and high winds. After you’ve turned off your air conditioner, cover it with a tarp or plywood to protect it from flying debris. High winds can knock down branches and trees that could damage your unit if they land on it. Be sure to remove the covering as soon as it’s safely possible. Keeping your unit covered too long can trap moisture which leads to mold and mildew.
  4. Secure the unit. If you have an elevated air conditioner on a second story, be sure to secure your outdoor condenser unit with hurricane straps to keep it in place during strong wind gusts. If your area is prone to flooding, you may want to get an HVAC professional to elevate your unit for better protection.
  5. Check for damage before you turn your air back on. This is one of the most important steps. Don’t forget to assess the storm damage before you turn your system back on. Flooding or flying debris could have damaged your unit and turning it on can make the problem worse. Also, storm winds many cause disconnections within your AC unit, which could lead to toxic refrigerant leaks. Do turn your A/C on as soon as it seems safe. This will keep mold and mildew from settling in.

5 Simple Steps to Protect Your Home From a Hurricane

In addition to protecting your air conditioner, there are a few simple steps you can take to help protect your home. Please note, these suggestions do not mean you or your home will be “safe” during a severe storm. Please follow weather advisories and evacuate the area when recommended by local officials

  1. Brace your garage door. If heavy winds break down your garage door and get into your garage, it’s easier for the whole roof to be ripped off.
  2. Securely fasten windows and doors. Protect your home from broken glass and flying debris by ensuring all doors and windows are locked. Many homes in hurricane-prone areas have window, porch and door protection systems for added security.
  3. Trim surrounding trees. Keep an eye out for dead limbs or overhanging trees on your property and remove them before they can cause damage in a heavy storm. Other loose objects around your yard like patio furniture and grills should also be secured.
  4. Unplug appliances or invest in a surge protector. In a severe storm, electrical surges are a very real possibility and can do a lot of damage to your expensive kitchen appliances and home entertainment systems.
  5. Protect your home from flood damage. If possible, move your car to higher ground and move valuables off the floor. Most importantly, make sure you have the proper flood insurance and an updated home inventory to make any future property claims easier.

What's a Good SEER Rating? | What is a high-efficiency air conditioner?

What's a Good SEER Rating? | What is a high-efficiency air conditioner?

Uncover what you should look for in a SEER rating and how a higher rating will impact your costs and comfort level

It’s tough to give a quick answer here, because a good SEER rating depends on what you’re looking for in a heating and cooling system.

WHAT IS SEER ANYWAY?

First, the basics. SEER  stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. This is the ratio of the cooling output of an air conditioner over a typical cooling season, divided by the energy it uses in Watt-Hours. It may also be called a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating.

A SEER ratio is calculated over an entire cooling season using a constant indoor temperature and a variety of outdoor temperatures ranging from 60 degrees to 100 plus. This is how it simulates a typical season.

Keep in mind that SEER ratio is a maximum efficiency rating, like the miles per gallon for your car. Say your car gets 28 miles per gallon on the highway. But if you’re stuck in city traffic it’s a lot less efficient. The same goes for your air conditioner. If your SEER ratio is 21, that’s the maximum efficiency and it could be lower depending on conditions.

Benefits of a High SEER Rating or Ratio

Higher Energy Efficiency
A higher SEER rating provides greater energy efficiency in certain conditions. The minimum standard SEER for air conditioners is 13, though most modern air conditioners have a SEER that ranges from 13 to 21. Trane air conditioners range from 14.5 SEER up to 22 SEER. But don’t forget — this rating is a maximum. The efficiency of your system can vary based on the size of your home, your current ductwork and other variables. Even with a high SEER rating, it’s still helpful to use other energy saving tips for the summer season. 

The U.S. Department of Energy enforces minimum SEER requirements that differ by geographical region. The minimum in the Southwest and Southeast is 14 and it’s goes down to 13 in the North. A 13 or 14 SEER rating doesn’t necessarily mean a unit is inefficient. Most older A/C systems are rated at around 8 or 9, so even the lowest available SEER rated system you buy today will be much more energy efficient.

Greater Indoor Comfort
Getting an air conditioning system with a higher SEER does mean you’ll be more comfortable in the summer months, especially if you live in a hot region like the Southeast or Southwest.

Higher SEER units often have 2 components that provide greater indoor comfort.

  • 2-stage or variable-speed compressor
  • Variable-speed blower

Air conditioners with lower SEER ratings are usually single-stage and only run on one speed. This means they’ll frequently turn on and off during mild weather and you’ll experience uneven cooling or hot and cold spots. You’ll also experience higher humidity levels which makes it feel hotter than it is. Your A/C needs to run for a long period of time to remove humidity from your home’s air. The ups and downs of a single-stage system don’t accommodate for this.

So what’s the answer?

There’s no magic SEER number. Anything over 13 is great. Because if you have an old 8 SEER system and replace it with a 16 SEER unit, you could significantly reduce the cost of cooling your home.

Don’t forget to look at tax credits and manufacturer’s rebates that can bring the down the cost of a high SEER system. You can also feel good using fewer fossil fuels, which means fewer greenhouse gas emissions.

Heat Pump Or Furnace? What’s The Best Way To Heat Your Home?

Heat Pump Or Furnace? What’s The Best Way To Heat Your Home?

Heat pumps and furnaces heat your home – but in very different ways. Find out how and which system may be right for you.

When it comes to heating your home – you’ve got options. And unless you’re a seasoned pro (not likely), understanding how to choose the right heating system can feel overwhelming. Not to worry, here’s what you need to know to make the right choice.

WHAT IS A HEAT PUMP?

A heat pump, as part of a central heating and cooling system, uses the outside air to both heat a home in winter and cool it in summer. Basically, that means your heat pump will act as an air conditioner when things get hot and a heater when it’s cold outside – making heat pumps one versatile product. In addition to its flexibility, heat pumps are also energy-efficient. Think of a heat pump as a heat transporter constantly moving warm air from one place to another, to where it’s needed or not needed, depending on the season. In the winter, the pump extracts heat from the outdoor air or ground and distributes it to your home. In the summer, hot air from inside your home is removed – creating a cooler indoor environment.

WHAT IS A FURNACE?

A furnace, as part of a central heating and cooling system, converts fuel into cozy heat that’s then delivered throughout your home. All furnaces consist of four main components: 1) burners that deliver and burn fuel, 2) heat exchangers, 3) a blower and 4) a flue that acts as an exhaust for gaseous by-products. Depending on your situation, region and needs, you can choose from heating systems running on either gas or oil as fuel.

WHAT IS A DUAL FUEL SYSTEM?

Dual fuel systems blend the best features of a gas furnace together with a heat pump.  A dual fuel system includes both a heat pump and a gas furnace and will operate the heat pump during milder temperatures when the heat pump is more efficient, and as the outdoor temperature gets colder the system will automatically switch over to the gas furnace.  Not only does this give the homeowner the best comfort in their house, but it switches back and forth between the heat pump and gas furnace depending on which is most efficient, saving homeowners the most amount of money.

INSTALLATION COST

The overall installation cost of your furnace, heat pump or dual fuel system depends heavily on your home’s compatibility and current system setup. For instance, some homes may not have access to natural gas, making an air conditioner and furnace installation a more expensive alternative to a heat pump system. Alternatively, homes that are not wired for the supplemental heating associated with a heat pump system may incur additional costs. Your dealer is an excellent resource for determining which system(s) are best for your home and can help further explain these installation costs.

ENERGY EFFICIENCY

Under ideal conditions, a heat pump can transfer 300 percent more energy than it consumes. In contrast, a high-efficiency gas furnace is about 95 percent efficient. Heat pumps are powered by electricity, so you can save substantially on fuel consumption. It’s over 100 percent efficient in various temperate climates and can serve as both a heater and air conditioner.

AIR QUALITY

The same Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) considerations can be made for both your heat pump or gas furnace system. Products such as a whole-home air cleaner or fresh air ventilator are great options when it comes to maximizing your home’s air quality!

COLD WEATHER EFFECTIVENESS

A gas furnace burns fuel so it can generate heat on the coldest days. If the outside air temperature routinely falls below freezing, a heat pump may have a hard time generating enough heat to keep your home warm. Supplemental systems are available to work in tandem with your heat pump and kick in on the coldest days. Unfortunately, these systems use a lot of energy – canceling out the energy-efficient benefits if used too often. A dual fuel system can handle both mild and below-freezing temperatures, switching between heat sources depending on the outdoor temperature and home heating needs.

COMFORT

In general, the air from a heat pump isn’t as hot as what you get from a gas furnace. It’s still warming your home, but it “blows cooler.” Some people don’t like that. In contrast to the hot and dry air of a furnace, heat pumps circulate air that’s naturally humid –  so they won’t dry out your skin as much as the heat of a furnace.

LIFESPAN AND MAINTENANCE

A gas-fired furnace generally has a longer lifespan than a heat pump. Furnaces with proper maintenance can last 20 years or more. A heat pump, like an air conditioner, more commonly has a lifespan of 15 years. Since the heating elements of a gas-operated furnace are only used for a few months out of each year, the maintenance requirements are less than those for a heat pump. A gas-fired furnace also has fewer mechanical parts than a heat pump, meaning fewer things that can break down or malfunction.

Where you live matters

Understanding that every home and homeowner need is different, there are some general recommendations that can help you decide what heating source is right for you.

A heat pump may be right for you if you live in a mild climate.

If your winters average around 30-40 degrees F, heat pumps could be the perfect fit for your home. A climate like the Southeast that has milder winters works well for a heat pump. In addition, locations with low electric rates are prime candidates for heat pumps.

A furnace may be right for you if you live in a cold climate.

If your winters are bitterly cold and have temperatures consistently below freezing a furnace may be the best choice for you. Furnaces fare better in cold-weather climates because they don’t depend on the outdoor temperatures to convert to heat.

Dual fuel combines the best of both systems.

Dual fuel is a great choice in areas that see either mild or extreme winters. Dual fuel systems select the best heating option, either heat pump or furnace, based on your heating need, making them a great fit no matter the weather.

Help! Why Is My House Hot Upstairs and Cold Downstairs?

Help! Why Is My House Hot Upstairs and Cold Downstairs?

Is your second floor hotter than the rest of your house? Here’s how to keep it cooler, especially in the summer.

It’s summer, your air conditioner’s on full blast and every room downstairs feels cool and refreshing. Your second floor, though? It feels like you’re trekking through the Sahara.

Sound familiar? 

Scores of homeowners experience the same frustration during the hottest months of the year when their two-story homes get hot and humid upstairs while staying cool and airy downstairs. 

The good news is that you don’t have to accept a hot upstairs and cold downstairs as a fact of life. Learn why this keeps happening and what you can do to change it.

First, here’s why your second floor feels like a sauna 

  • Heat rises. Blame physics: hot air rises while cold air sinks. That means your upstairs typically gets hotter than your lower levels, even if your air conditioner’s working in overdrive. 

     

     

  • Your roof’s hot, too: Unless you have shady tree cover, your roof absorbs a ton of heat from the sun. That hot air seeps into your attic before settling onto your top floor. If you don’t have attic space to buffer the heat or your roof isn’t well-insulated, you’ll automatically feel hotter upstairs.

     

  • Faulty ductwork: Ducts absorb the cool air from your HVAC system and distribute it throughout your home. If your ducts are old, were installed poorly or leak, then your air conditioner may struggle to evenly cool your home.

     

  • You may be using a single-zone system: Single-zone systems are separate air conditioning units that heat or cool a single area in your home. They’re great if you want to manage the temperature in one room or dedicated space. They’re not so great if you’re trying to cool all your second floor in the dead heat of summer. You may want to consider switching to multi-zone air conditioning, which lets you control the temperature in several different rooms, or zones. Browse our selection of multi-zone systems.

     

  • Your air conditioner might be old: Most air conditioners last up to 15 years. If yours isn’t sufficiently cooling your home, it could simply be nearing the end of its lifespan. Consider replacing your old unit. A newer, more energy-efficient model could more adequately cool your home, help establish an equilibrium in temperature between floors and save you in utility costs. Check out Trane’s most energy-efficient air conditioners to get your top floor feeling cool again.

10 Ways to Cool Down Your Second Floor

    1. Block the sun
      Close your blinds and shades to block excessive light and ultraviolet rays. You can even try heat blocking shades or UV blocking film. Be sure to seal all cracks, holes and gaps around windows to prevent air leaks. And you may want to consider upgrading to more energy-efficient double pane windows.
       
    2. Insulate and ventilate
      Insulation plays a crucial role in keeping your home comfortable and energy efficient (it can help lower your energy bills). Try adding extra insulation to your roof or attic. An attic fan can help circulate air and limit the amount of hot air lingering on your second floor. You may also want to try air sealing your attic to stop heat from getting in. 
       
    3. Repair your ductwork
      If leaky ductwork is the source of your cooling issues, contact a dealer to identify the areas where the leak is happening. Your dealer may cover them with insulation or use an  aluminum foil tape or mastic sealant to cover apparent air leaks.
       
    4. Reduce your use of lights and appliances
      Avoid creating more heat upstairs. Keep your lights off or dimmed. Cut back on appliances that generate heat, like hair dryers, curling irons, dishwashers, ovens and stoves. Even if your appliances are on your lower floors, the heat can still rise.
       
    5. Change air filters
      A dirty air filter can restrict the flow of cool air and force your HVAC system to work harder. Check and change your air filters to ensure airflow isn’t hindered as it moves through your home. Bonus: Air filters can also reduce allergies!

       

    6. Adjust the fan setting on your thermostat
      Switch it from “auto” to “on,” so the blower fan runs constantly and creates a more even mix of air throughout your home. Running your fan doesn’t use a lot of energy. It may actually lower energy usage because your HVAC system won’t need to cycle as often.

       

    7. Create climate zones
      Start by partially closing a few (not all) vents on your first floor. This forces your AC system to direct more air upstairs. Take this concept to the next level by having an HVAC professional install a climate zone system, like the Trane ComfortLink® II Zoning System. It’s a smart home comfort system that lets you remotely manage your home’s climate, set a schedule based on your home’s unique temperature patterns and monitor and control your zoning system through any web-enabled device.
       
    8. Fire up the (ceiling and floor) fans
      Your ceiling and floor fans can help circulate the cold air that may be lingering near the floor. Just remember that fans cool people, not rooms. So, if you’re planning to be out of the room for a while, turn the fan off to limit energy use.
       
    9. Tinker with your vents
      Your air vents may have levers or dials that you can adjust to help control airflow in specific rooms. Like we mentioned before, keep the vents on your second floor fully open while only keeping vents on your first floor partially open. That’ll force more cool air to circulate to your second-floor rooms. Your home may also be set up with top-to-bottom return vents, which absorbs warm air and redistributes it as cold air throughout your home. If that’s the case, open the top vents during the summer. This forces your system to take in air from the higher points of your room, where warm air tends to gather.
    10. Consider adding an extra HVAC system
      If you’ve tried a little bit of everything and your upstairs still won’t cool down, your home may be too large for your current HVAC system. Talk to us about upgrading to a larger HVAC system or adding a second system upstairs.

 

One Last Tip!

There’s no denying that a humid upstairs is uncomfortable, maybe even unbearable. But, understanding how temperature works may help temper your expectations about what your home should feel like inside.

For instance, if it’s 98 degrees outside, your air conditioner may never be able to get your home down to 68 degrees. So, what can you do? You can learn how to carefully regulate your thermostat, which can help slow down the flow of heat in your home and cool your rooms on a schedule, like right before you get home. (You may be able to lower your utility bills, too!) 

Air conditioner capacitors: What they are and why they're such a big deal

Air conditioner capacitors: What they are and why they're such a big deal

Among the jumbled mass of wires inside your air conditioner’s outdoor unit lives one of the most important components of your entire HVAC system: your air conditioner capacitor. 

Your AC capacitor resembles a shiny, cylinder-shaped battery and is responsible for energizing your AC system’s motors to get them running when it’s time to cool things off in your home.

The AC capacitor is one of the most frequently replaced parts of an air conditioner, mainly because it can stop your entire HVAC system from operating if it fails or malfunctions. Should that happen, your air conditioner will have to work harder to circulate cool air in your space, which can eventually wear out your AC unit or result in higher energy bills. 

Keep reading for a breakdown of what you should know about the AC capacitor, including how to spot early signs of trouble and what you can do if yours goes on the fritz.

But first, a quick warning: AC capacitors are dangerous, high-voltage devices. Touching or mishandling one could lead to serious injury or death. So, don’t handle them. Always consult an experienced and licensed HVAC technician if you’re experiencing problems with your air conditioner.

What does an AC capacitor do, exactly?

An AC capacitor provides the initial jolt of electricity your air conditioner’s motors need to run successfully. It stores electricity and sends it to your system’s motors in powerful bursts that get your unit revved up as it starts the cooling cycle. Once your AC is up and running, the capacitor reduces its energy output, but still supplies a steady current of power until the cycle finishes.

AC capacitors are measured in voltage and microfarads. Voltage shows how much electrical current is moving through the capacitor. The more voltage in your capacitor, the faster the electrical current moves throughout it. Microfarads, meanwhile, describe how much electrical current the capacitor can store. Most capacitors range from 5 MFD (microfarads) to 80 MFD.

They may look and function similarly to batteries, but capacitors are not batteries. They’re connected to wiring inside your air conditioning system. That means you can’t simply open your unit’s doors and pop a new capacitor inside if it’s time for a new one. In fact, don’t change your AC capacitor yourself because they’re high-voltage devices that could seriously harm you, even if the power is turned off. We’ll talk more about this later.

Why is a capacitor necessary?

Even though your AC unit is connected to your home’s electrical system, it needs a stronger boost to work effectively. That’s because air conditioners are high-powered machines that require a lot of energy to do what they’re built to do, and your home’s wiring simply doesn’t provide the adequate amount of power to get the job done. The capacitor compensates by kickstarting your system’s motor and helping it cool your home until it takes a momentary break. Once it’s time for another cooling cycle, the capacitor gets back to work.

Capacitors have an important, strenuous job, which is why a failed capacitor is one of the most common reasons for a malfunctioning air conditioner, especially during the summer. A worn-out AC capacitor can cause widespread problems you’d probably rather avoid. 

Start capacitors vs. run capacitors: What’s the difference?

Depending on how your HVAC system is built, there may be two single capacitors or one dual capacitor in your outdoor unit. 

Systems requiring two single capacitors need a start capacitor and run capacitor to function properly. The start capacitor is designed to deliver the energy your AC’s motor requires to start the cooling cycle. That’s it. Once your unit gets that initial jolt, the run capacitor steps in. It stores and then releases the energy needed to keep the motor going and your AC blowing.

If one of these capacitors fails, your technician may decide to replace both parts with a dual capacitor. 

A dual capacitor is like getting a combo pack of candy bars. The device performs the same job as both the start capacitor and run capacitor. It gives your unit that important initial spark and supplies a consistent flow of electricity to keep it running. Dual capacitors offer a lot more convenience. They save space in your HVAC unit and can be easier for HVAC technicians to replace. 

What are the signs of a bad AC capacitor?

There are some telltale signs that let you know when you should hire an HVAC technician to replace your AC capacitor. Some common symptoms of a bad capacitor include: 

  • Your AC takes time to begin a cooling cycle or just won’t start at all
  • Your AC randomly shuts off on its own
  • You can’t feel any cold air in your home while your AC’s running
  • Your AC is emitting a humming noise during operation 
  • You notice smoke or detect a burning smell coming from your unit
  • Your energy bills are unreasonably high

The causes of a bad AC capacitor vary, but can include: debris hitting the capacitor and causing damage; extremely hot temperatures causing the capacitor to overheat; wear and tear over a long period of time; short circuits in the cooling system; power surges; and even lightning strikes.

How do you test an AC capacitor?

Call your local Trane dealer if you need to help discerning whether your AC capacitor isn’t working the way it should and needs to be replaced. These trained professionals use special tools and training to measure the capacitor’s current, voltage and resistance. You should not attempt doing any of this yourself as tinkering with your capacitor may result in serious injury or death.

How much does it cost to replace an AC capacitor? 

If you’ve got confirmation from a licensed HVAC professional that your AC capacitor needs replacing, prepare to spend between $120 to $250 for the part and installation, according to a 2021 report from HomeAdvisor. 

The price may vary depending on the HVAC capacitor’s brand, model, voltage and the amount of labor required for installation. (Branded units are typically more expensive, costing up to $400 or more.)

If you’d rather buy the part yourself, you may spend between $9 to $45 on the actual capacitor, although certain brand-name parts and models could cost more.

Can I replace my AC capacitor myself?

No, you can’t. An experienced HVAC technician should be able to correctly remove your defunct capacitor and replace it with a new one that will get your AC working like it should.

 

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Is a Zoned HVAC System Right for My Home?

Is a Zoned HVAC System Right for My Home?

Learn how zoned HVAC works and how it can improve your energy savings and comfort

Is it a never-ending battle among the people in your home over the “right” temperature to set on the thermostat? Does it constantly feel like your home has a different temperature in every room? If this sounds like your household, a zoned HVAC system could be the answer to your temperature problems. 

A zoned HVAC system divides your home into multiple zones, each controlled by its own thermostat. This allows you to set each room to the ideal temperature for you, instead of having to heat or cool the entire home to just one temperature. A zoned HVAC system can give you more control over your comfort, provide energy savings and, perhaps most importantly, eliminate daily arguments over the thermostat! 

Cutaway of home HVAC system

How does an HVAC zoning system work?

The first step in setting up an HVAC zoning system is to actually divide your home into zones. Once your home is divided into two or more zones (more on what zones are and how to create them later), a thermostat will be installed within each. While each thermostat controls its own zone, they’re all connected to one central control panel in your home.

From there, dampers, which are valves or plates that regulate airflow inside a duct, will be installed in the ducts of your home. If you’re using a multi-zone ductless cooling system instead of central air conditioning, dampers will be installed at the air outlet directly on each system. Dampers open and close. When a certain zone needs air flow, the dampers will open and allow cool or hot air to pass through. When the zone has reached the desired temperature, the dampers will close and stop air flow. Multiple dampers can be programmed to be controlled together, if they all serve the same zone in the home.

When you change the temperature on the thermostat in one zone of your home, a message is sent to the central control panel. If you raise the temperature, the central control panel will tell your heating device it’s time to go to work. If you lower the temperature, the central control panel will signal for your air conditioner to turn on. As soon as the heating or cooling device kicks on, the central control panel will open all the ducts associated with the zone requiring a temperature change, but keep the ducts of the other zones closed. This allows each zone to have its own temperature based on your needs. 

zoned HVAC damper system

How many zones do you need?

The best way to determine how many zones you need in your home is to talk to an HVAC professional. If you find that your home has vastly different temperatures upstairs and downstairs, one zone for each floor could be the right fit for you. Alternatively, you could set a zone for different sections of your home, or even a zone for each room in your home. There’s no limit on how many zones your home can have!

How to monitor and control temperatures in each zone

When it comes to a zoned HVAC system, all you need to do is control the thermostat in each zone of your home. Beyond that, let your HVAC system do the heavy lifting. Temperature control is based on your individual preferences. If you like to drop the temperature when you go to bed at night, but have your coffee in a warm kitchen in the morning, you can program your upstairs temperature to be lower than your downstairs one. Once you change the temperature on the thermostat, your HVAC system will take care of the rest. Plus, you can change the temperature in each zone at any time, depending on when you might be feeling a little too hot or cold.

When does AC zoning make sense?

Now that you know what a zoned HVAC system is, the next step is determining if it makes sense for your home. 

If you have a multi-level home

Because heat rises, it can often feel hotter upstairs than downstairs in a multi-level home. Few people enjoy sleeping when it’s hot, but it’s even worse to get out of bed when your home is freezing. If you have a multi-level home, you can set different temperatures for the upstairs and downstairs portions with HVAC zoning, instead of attempting to control both levels with one thermostat.

If you have a home with high ceilings 

If your home has tall ceilings, oftentimes heat rises and gets trapped all the way at the top, leaving you shivering at the ground level. A zoned HVAC system allows you to fix this problem by raising the room’s temperature more frequently, so heat can circulate more, making the room warmer overall. Creating a separate zone in a room with high ceilings means the temperature there can be comfortable, without making it too warm elsewhere in your home. 

If your home has picture windows, bay windows or large glass windows 

Sunlight can play a huge role in setting the temperature of a room. If you have any kind of large window, like picture windows, bay windows, or floor to ceiling windows, an increased amount of sunlight is likely entering the room and raising the temperature. AC zoning allows you to make rooms with many windows their own zone, so you can lower the temperature in that space without having to change the temperature in the entire house.

If rooms in your home are always at different temperatures

If none of these conditions necessarily apply to your home, but your home still seems to be a different temperature throughout each room, a zoned HVAC system might be right for you. There are hundreds of reasons why your home could have different temperatures throughout, and controlling each room with only one thermostat isn’t going to fix the problem. Investing in a zoned HVAC system will let you keep a consistent temperature throughout your home, or to change the temperature in each room to anything you desire. 

Benefits of AC zoning

Increased energy savings

When you have one central thermostat controlling your entire home, every time you feel like it’s too hot or cold in just one room, you need to change the temperature in your entire home. Heating and cooling your entire home requires more energy and time, which can mean a bigger energy bill for you.

With a zoned HVAC system, if you want to change the temperature in just one room or floor, you can do that. The system won’t release heated or cooled air anywhere but that one zone, which means it’s using less energy and helping to save you money in getting your home to your desired temperature. 

Extra control and comfort in your home

Multiple thermostats means more control of the temperature and your overall comfort in your home. A zoned HVAC system makes each room the ideal temperature based on your individual preferences, so you don’t have to settle for just one temperature throughout your home. If there’s multiple people living in one home, zoned HVAC will even let each person control the temperature in their own bedroom or living space, so everyone is satisfied.

Better air quality

While the air flowing through an HVAC system is filtered, sometimes particles like lint, dust, pollen, or pet dander can escape through the filters and back into your home. The dampers that control a zoned HVAC system make sure air is only diverted to the zone it’s intended for, so they help keep unwanted dirt and debris that escaped the filtration system from circulating throughout the entire house every time the HVAC system is turned on. 

How much does an HVAC zoning system cost?

If you think HVAC zoning could be the right fit for your home, you’re probably curious about HVAC pricing for this system. The initial cost of zoning equipment and installation for a zoned HVAC system can be between $2,000 and $3,330, according to Pick HVAC data. The initial cost depends on the number of zones you’re looking to install. If you want to overhaul an existing HVAC system with a zoned one, the cost will increase so the technician can remove your old system or upgrade it with dampers and new electric wiring. Installing a zoned HVAC system during new construction is typically a more inexpensive option. 

Is AC zoning right for you?

While a zoned HVAC system can provide many benefits, it isn’t for everyone. HVAC zoning typically carries a higher installation cost because it’s more work for an HVAC professional than a traditional central heating or cooling device. This type of system requires multiple thermostats, which come with increased electrical work and cost, as well as installation of dampers in every zone. Plus, when there’s more pieces involved in an HVAC system, there’s more potential for one of them to break down, which means increased repair costs.

If you don’t feel like your home is constantly at different temperatures, or don’t have any of the in-home features we mentioned earlier (i.e., large windows), a zoned HVAC system might not be for you. Here’s how various air conditioning systems work without zoning:

  • Central air conditioning: A central AC provides cool air to your entire home via a system of ducts. If you’re happy with your entire home being the same temperature all the time, a central air conditioning system will keep you cool throughout the spring and summer months. Central air conditioning is typically paired with a heating device like a furnace or heat pump.
  • Heat pump: Heat pumps can both heat and cool your home, but work best paired with an air handler or furnace. Heat pumps are great in mild to hot climates, so if you live in a place with consistently warm or hot weather conditions, a heat pump could be perfect for your home. This HVAC combination also works by feeding warm or cool air through a system of ducts to make your entire home one consistent temperature.
  • Ductless systems: Ductless air conditioners don’t use zones or ductwork to circulate and control air. Instead, they pump cool or warm air directly into one singular room. Ductless systems are great for people who want to control the temperature in just one singular room, instead of their entire home.  

 

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